In tailoring, in addition to the sewing machine, there are some other important elements. For today’s conversation, I will describe my own experiences with needles and scissors. The first step, when you start a product, is to choose the material and cut it. All this is much easier if you have good, sharp, and easy scissors! The next step – sewing. Needles are very important when it comes to sewing. The whole experience can become quite frustrating if you don’t use the right needle.

Needles for the Sewing Machine

There are three types of needles: hand sewing, household machine sewing, and industrial machine sewing. Today we are talking about sewing needles at home. Everyone should realize that these needles are different from the ones everyone is familiar with.

A needle for the household sewing machine (very important – the housewife) has a chamfered top; I put a picture to make it look better. I remember the first time I went to buy sewing machine needles; the saleswomen wanted to ask me what machine, and I had no idea what I would answer. I bought five inappropriate needles. Then after I found out what kind of needles I needed, I bought the wrong size.

Let me tell you what sewing needles are like: the larger its size, the thicker the needle. The numbering starts at 70 and ends at 110. What needle do we use depending on the material we sewed?

ACE 70 – these needles are very thin – perfectly designed to sew thin materials such as silk, veil. Why do you have to have a thin needle to sew these fabrics? Precisely because they are thin, they do not “perforate” the material they sew; they leave only a small and fine hole without affecting the fabric.

ACE of 80 – I’m a thicker idea – I use these to sew 80% of the materials I work with. “Normal” materials as thickness: linen, cotton, jersey, melted cloth, etc. They are thick enough to pierce the fabric but do not leave large holes in the material.

ACE of 90 – already the needle rod begins to thicken – basket with them the kind of materials such as dock or velvet. Don’t get me wrong, you can sew these materials with a needle of 80, but they are not the most suitable. As the threads from these materials are thicker, the needle will leave behind a hole suitable for the fabric.

ACE 100 – thick rod – these needles are used when sewing jeans or any harder, thick, and thick fabric. If you try to sew jeans with a thinner needle (70, for example), you either manage to break the needle, or you will see that it jumps steps.

ACE 110 – very thick rod, you look at it and wonder what to do? – I use these needles very rarely when I have a product with many overlaps of thick materials. For example, if I sew the fabric and put it in many layers, I would change the needle with a 110. But I used it three, four times.

In general, when it comes to buying needles, I take two or three boxes of 80 and two or three more of 90, one of 70, and one of 100. By the way, related to buying needles, another thing I learned here – don’t look at money! The needles are not expensive, somewhere around 1-1.5 lei each. Do not change them daily to say that they are doing you harm. The car needle must be good! From everything I’ve tested so far, I stick to two companies that have satisfied me: SINGER and Groz-Beckert. As the needles are constructed from metal, their durability is increased, therefore making them stronger and more difficult to break.

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What to Avoid for Sewing Machine Needles:

Do not use needles that are not suitable for the type of material (thin needles for thick materials, for example)

If the needle has bent the handcuffs a little, change it! Stop sewing with it because it can “unbalance” other parts of the sewing machine.

Check the needle from time to time; its tip becomes dull or ends up “hanging” the material from too much wear – change it!

The “key” with which you catch the needle must be tightened quite well but not exaggerated – in time, it will blunt and will not catch the needle well.


Here I will speak to you from the heart, as I said, and at first, she was passionate about this super invention! I love the sound that scissors make when you cut with them! I tested scissors because I was bored since I was little,  but I’m in love with Fiskars – by far, I find the best ones! Let me tell you why: I took one from Finland five years ago, I never sharpened it, and it still cuts wonderfully!


I don’t believe in those mega heavy scissors if you see them through the tailors. I also took one; I gave it as a gift. They are too heavy, and I also rub your bones. Cut well, which is true, but if you have to cut 100 squares for a patchwork, you are left with crooked bones and a muscle fever. I’m not smelly, but I find them uncomfortable without being necessary. Yes, one of those scissors helps you a lot when you have to cut three layers of jeans/fabric, as they are thick and hard as texture, but I prefer to cut them one by one!

The Metal

From what I noticed, the metal from a pair of scissors must be quite strong. Undoubtedly, when you cut, you accidentally hit the blade with a blade, and you don’t want your blade to remain bent there. There are many metal or soft metal alloys (again, I don’t know chemistry, but I noticed their blade).

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What to Avoid When Using Scissors:

As for the price, from what I saw, a good pair of scissors starts somewhere around 80-100 lei. It seems a little expensive, but you don’t get one every day, and it’s your number one instrument when it comes to tailoring. It is very important that it is good and does not make your job difficult. At one point, a promotion at Kaufland; they had a super scissor from Fiskars reduced to 50% – it was 44 lei; I should have taken five then.

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